Travega: Sedlec-Czech Republic

My feet are sore, my calves grew an inch and my thighs are rubber! But it was all worth it when we got to the top of the mountain and looked down on the 1000 year old pilgrimage village, Svatý Jan pod Skalou (meaning St. John under a rock). About 45 minutes southwest of Prague there are tall mountain ridges, morning mist, clean air and wildlife. Taking a hike in this area is a perfect Saturday day trip and that's just what we did. From the train station in Srbsko a 3 mile path takes you to the town of Svatý Jan pod Skalou this village is famous for its little church build on 9th century caves. Here's the legend that goes along with the church;

Legend has it that the hermit, Ivan, left his secular life to live in local travertine caves. He fell in love with the valley so much that he decided to stay and it has been said that he lived there for 42 years. He took with him nothing but a crypt to furnish his little cave home. God sent Ivan a doe to feed him milk but one day while Ivan and his doe where out exploring the valleys the doe was killed by a hunter, the Czech Christian Duke. Ivan was very sad and the Duke felt horrible that he killed his source of milk. The Duke invited Ivan to the Tetin Castle where he offered him a place to live. Ivan denied the offer and returned to his caves. On the way home he was threatened by a Heathen Shepard to leave the valley. Tired from the long day Ivan slept on the cold stone ground and decided he would leave in the morning. During the night evil demons came to kill Ivan, Ivan fought but he would not have won if St. John the Baptist didn't give him a crucifix during the battle. The demons exploded through the roof of the cave and the hole from which they flew is still present. Drops of Ivan's blood can still be seen in the cave where the battle took place as well as his footprints from his years of dwelling. Ivan from then on was worshiped as a saint. Before his death, Ivan sent the duke tidings from St. John the Baptist: "It was you whom God ordered through St. John the Baptist to consecrate this place after my death as a church in honor of the Virgin Mary and the St. Cross, and to designate St. John the Baptist as its patron saint." Ivan's crypt is now used consistently by locals who believe that the marble alter can forecast the weather. If the alter is wet, there will be rain but if it is dry you can leave your umbrella at home! They also are very appreciative of St. John the Baptist who saved St. Ivan.

This was how the church was built upon the caves where Ivan lived and where his burial site is. In the cave room where Ivan slept there is a window and underneath it rises a strong, curative, hot well - St. Ivan’s Spring. Water from local springs used to be bottled up and sold as the mineral water ‘Ivanka’. Up the hill one can find the Chapel of the Elevation of the Holy Cross. According to legend, the chapel stands on the place where St. John the Baptist met with Ivan and gave him a wooden cross to expel demons.

The church was rebuilt during the 20th century when the building started to collapse after apparently being built on swamp land. The only original part of the building is the tower. The caves are intact; the abbots, a noble girl named Magdelena Zelenkova of Prosovice and Ivan's 6-10 thousand year old tomb are here.

We then climbed the large mountain ridge behind the church. This is not for the light-hearted! A good 1.5 miles of uphill slopes will defiantly leave you breathless but so will the view from the top of this beautiful ridge overlooking the valley. We made the long walk back and stopped at a restaurant at the beginning of the trail, enjoying a late lunch and drinks. Great way to get out of the city and breath in cool mountain air! I plan on doing the hike again later in the year!