Sunday, March 24, 2013

Thai Ghost Stories

I LOVE folk tales and LOVE a good ghost story, luckily Thai history and culture has an abundance of both! I've pieced together a few of my favorite characters and scary stories that I've learned about. I wouldn't read them alone or at night, these might give you goosebumps. You've been warned!

Krasue:


The legend of Krasue comes from a Southeast Asian story about a Khmer princess who was forced to marry a Siamese nobleman. She was in love with another man but could not marry him due to status as well as the recent conquer by Siam over the Khmer people. She was caught one night with her lover and sentenced to death by her betrothed. On the day she was to be executed by burning she took a potion given to her by a sorceress. The potion was to leave her body unharmed by the fire. The spell worked, but not right away. Most of her body had already been burned before the magic kicked in, her organs and head remained unharmed. 

Villagers say that Krasue is plagued by a deep hunger which she can never satisfy. Krasue comes out to hunt at night and will eat chickens, water buffalo and pigs. She also is drawn to pregnant women and will try to eat the baby before delivery. When there are complications with pregnancy it is said that Krasue might be to blame. 

The Witch and the Orphan Boy:


One night a local orphan boy could not sleep so he crept out of his shared room at the orphanage house and took a little walk. Lost is his thoughts he walked and walked until he heard a sound coming from around the corner. Someone or something was gnawing, slurping and moaning. Reluctant and scared the little boy peaked around the corner to see the witch eating a man he knew from his village. The man had been torn apart, chest open with his organs scattered around his dead body. The witch was slurping out the intestine juice, her hands covered in blood. The boy shrieked and when the witch met his eyes and screamed a shrill terrifying note the boy ran. His small legs lifted with all his force, the witch flying behind him, crying a high-pitched scream that filled the night. 

The boy arrived at the orphanage and ran to his room which he shared with 20 other boys. He found his bed in the rows of lined mattresses. Quickly he covered his head with his blankets and pretended to be asleep like his friends beside him. He lowered his breathing and listened. He heard the door squeak and the witch enter. Silence. He waited. The witch flew over each bed, scanning for the boy who had seen her. The witch knew he was here. She began to grasp each ankle of the little boys asleep in bed, knowing that the one she was looking for would be cold from the night air where he had seen her. The boy listened, there was no sound but he could not be sure she was gone. He remained still. Suddenly, he felt a hand clutch his ankle and he lurched back in fear. He had been discovered.

In the morning, there was nothing left of the little orphan boy but his cold little feet and ankles left on his bed where he had slept. Torn muscle, skin and blood proved they had been ripped from the rest of him.  

Thai's today don't wonder around at night and many tuck their feet in at night; I will be from now on, that's for sure!!


Preta (Hungry Ghost):


Preta, also known as Hungry Ghosts in other folk tales, are beings with huge, empty stomachs but have pinhole mouths and necks so thin they cannot swallow. They experience continuous frustration and unsatisfied hunger. The origins of this tale are directly related to Buddhism and the belief that humans always seek but are never satisfied. The preta are always hungry, always empty and always seeking satisfaction from the outside. Pretas are believed to have been jealous or greedy people in a previous life. They were attached to their worldly material possessions and as a result of their karma are afflicted with insatiable hunger. 

The Old Clock Tower:


There is an Old Clock Tower at the University of Chiang Mai that I pass everyday on my way to school! It is said that if you run at midnight three times counter-clock wise and then peer through your legs you will see a Preta who roams there. There are many ghost related stories about the clock tower.

Chiang Mai University:

There are many ghost stories related to the Chiang Mai University. Many which have been published on Thai versions of "Ghost Hunters" ect. The one I know is about two girls who are roommates. The story is said to be true, although there are no documents of it anywhere.  

One night before class two roommates, Lawan and Kulap are doing homework around dinnertime. Lawan and Kulap are hungry but Lawan explains she is not feeling well and is hoping Kulap will bring her back some street food from the University market close by. Kulap agrees to bring back some food. Several hours later Lawan wakes, her stomach growling. She calls Kulap but she does not answer. She tries many times and is worried. Pacing, she decides she will wake up her friend down the hall to go help her find Kulap. She dresses and prepares to leave. Upon opening her front door she finds a bag of street food placed on the door handle, she is grateful but looks around for Kulap. She sees her friends' body several yards down the hall. Kulap's chin is placed on the floor with her head balancing. Her body stretches back behind her but she is missing both her legs and arms, blood is everywhere. 

It is still a mystery. People believe Kulap's was attacked walking back to the dorm, someone had cut off her limbs and she dragged herself to her dorm room using her chin. However, how the food was delivered to Lawan will never be understood as Kulap had no hands to grasp the bag and she was several yards from the door when she died, never having reached it. 

The front gate at Chiang Mai University


Hopefully you enjoyed these stories from Thai folktales and you can still sleep tonight!! 

Monday, March 18, 2013

Contemporary Buddhist Art & Architecture: The White Temple

The White Temple Wat at Rong Khun, also known as THE COOLEST TEMPLE EVER!, is an extraordinary example of contemporary Buddhist art. The artist Chalermchai Kositpipat has quickly become one of my favorite people. Persistent in his goal to have Thai art internationally recognized, Kositpipat started building the White Temple in 1997 and says, "I need to devote all my time to this and also to educate and pass along my vision to classes of pupils. Maybe in 60 to 90 years after my death it will be completed." WOW. I can't commit to 20 minutes of exercise everyday, there is no way I could commit to a project that would be complete 90 years after I am dead and gone. And people say men can't commit! Chalermchai Kositpipat has joined great artists such as Antoni Gaudi and Korczak Ziolkowski who have devoted their lives (and afterlife) to projects that continue to astound the world and defy the rules of what one man can accomplish.

The White Temple Wat at Rong Khun
Buddhism, established in 405 BC, is...well, really old. It was Chalermchai's vision to revive Buddhism art with his contemporary eclectic twist using symbolic and sometimes morbid representations of the fundamentals of the Buddhist religion. He uses not only items from Buddha's past but it's direct relationship with our present. Using symbols from our current news media and pop culture, Chalermchai shows us how elemental human nature and the Buddhist way of life and understanding applies now as much as it did during Buddha's life during the 5th Century. 

At Wat Rong Khun there is no admission fee charged. Chalermchai believes that everyone no matter denomination is welcome to visit the Wat. Chalermchai also does not work as a commissioned artist. He says,"I want to be the only artist in the world who can create anything with utmost freedom. I do not want to work under anybody's influence or thought processes. No one in the world can order me to do their forbidding, because I do not accept any monetary donations from sources including government, officers, politicians or millionaires." 

Chalermchai Kositpipat can be seen every morning at his temple working ton the architectural plan and design in every detail. He gets up early at 2 a.m., meditates for an hour, and then creates, sculpts, plans for his day and helps students. 

When it is completed, Kositpipat will be known for a man who dedicated his life to his country, his religion and to contemporary art. There is no doubt that Kositpipat will play a major role in presenting Thailand as an international competitor in contemporary art and architecture. 



He says his secret to happiness is he "disciplines the mind to train me toward being a good person with clear thinking, speaking well and doing good deeds. We are all human, and I want to give goodness to people. If we have love and forgiveness in our hearts, it will come out naturally. You need to practice patience before you can control your own mind. 


Here's a guide of what you'd seen when entering the grounds. 

First spooky heads hang from trees welcoming the new visitors: 



You're instantly blinded by the white and mirror decorated temple; although not traditionally used for temples in Thailand, the artist used white color to represent Buddha's purity while the mirrors symbolize Buddha's dhamma, teaching men to observe their own mind and reflect kindness towards others. The pond beautifully reflects the white temple. 


My favorite part was the demonic figures that surrounded the temple before the entrance to the bridge. There are all kinds of ghoulish creatures and disembodied heads of people who haven't managed yet to overcome cravings and obtain entrance to the main temple or Abode of Buddha.  









Once you cross the bridge you reach the Gate of Heaven guarded by Rahu (controls men's fate) and Death (controls men's life) 


You'll also pass the bridge where hundreds of hands reach for the visitor, souls from hell that are reaching up symbolizing the way to happiness through overcoming cravings. 




There are many examples of how Chalermchai shows how buddhism can be applied in are daily lives. Inside the temple there is a painting of George Bush and Bin Laden riding on top of a nuclear bomb. In response to questions of the symbolism of the piece Chalermchai explained, "I want everyone to know that our world is being destroyed by those who craved to build weapons that kill, thereby ruining the environment because nothing is ever enough. They segregate and therefore cannot find peace. I saw the violence and it hurts me and mankind to observe the killing of the innocence by these two powerful individuals." There is a lot of symbolism within every inch of the White Temple and my eyes looked right to left and over again always finding something new and beautiful. 




Other sites at the temple:

Even the traffic cones are AWESOME!

Grounds below the temple

Details of the white and mirrored glass

A well nearby the temple

People can donate to the temple by buying and writing their name on this charm, thousands of visitors!
WOW! Such an amazing site! 

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Did you say you were hungry? Intro to the Food of Thailand!




Thai cooking is a singular cuisine that is easily distinguished even from its nearest neighbors. Thai food is intertwined with all aspects of Thai culture. Since ancient times, dishes have been offered to the many gods and spirits that inhabited the Thai world of uncertainty. Today no celebration is complete without a meal, and the offering of food to monks is a sure way to obtain good luck and merit. Food offers more than nourishment alone; it is sustenance for the country and the soul.

To explore the cultural aspects of Thai food I took a cuisine class (a must when travelling to Thailand) where I made every traditional Thai dish possible and was then forced to eat every bit of this delicious food. My first blog in Thailand I posted about my fear of the cafeteria and the endless spicy food that left my mouth burning, eyes tearing and lips searing. I was uncomfortable with the food and longed for yummy American variety. It seemed there were two options in Thailand; Noodles or Rice. Rice or Noodles. every. time. But I've embraced it and have found my favorites, so many strong flavors! Now I add spice to my meal and can taste immediately if it needs sugar, spice or a pepper. Now I don't know what I'll eat when I get back to the US!

Here are some of our delicious meals!

Possibly my favorite! Tom Khaa Kai (Chicken in Coconut Milk)

My second favorite: Kaengbuadfak Thong (Pumpkin in Coconut Milk)

Very traditional-Khaawphad Kai (Chicken Fried Rice)

Preparing veggies!

Our grade depended on the final taste test by our professor!

No this is my favorite! Khaaw Soi ( Chiang Mai curried noodles)
 special dish of Northern Thailand, not found in the south

You've never had a mango until you've been to Thailand, the Mangos are AMAZING- Khaawniaw Ma Muang (Mango Sticky Rice)

They are ALL my favorite- Kai Phad Med Ma Muanghimmaphaan ( Stir Fried Chicken with Cashew Nuts)



Monday, March 4, 2013

A Piece of Pai

Alternative titles for this blog:

Hippie Capital of the World
Life of Pai
Attack of the Hippies: Zombie Apocalypse
Where Worlds Meet

Pai (pronounced "pie") is a little town 3 hours north of Chiang Mai where every free-loving, organic-growing, tree-hugging, dreadlock-wearing and incense-burning hippie from every corner of the world goes to relax and adventure. I did not leave Pai with any tattoos or a part of my head shaved but I did leave with a new love of incense, music and this timeless, country-less subculture.

No place compares to this freethinking beatnik atmosphere that seeps out of every pore of Pai, from waterfalls, caves and nearby mountains to the rice fields and bungalows. Even the dogs, cats and roosters that strut through the dirt roads between natural hemp products and herbal tea shops encompass the free spirited attitude that is Pai.

There should be a sign when entering Pai that says, "Please conform to nonconformity." You'll easily stand apart from these freethinking flower children if you're wearing anything other than fisherman pants and crochet tops. The culture is open to lone travelers that easily bond over breakfast; beware of open seats next to you as the extravagant characters that roam here will quickly take the free spot as an invite to enjoy your meal with you. Nevertheless, there is much fun to be had and sights to be seen if you take the time to look around.

Things to do in Pai:

Visit some of the awesome waterfalls around Pai! 
Pam Bok Waterfall

Mo Paeng Waterfall
Visit the Curry Shack


Coconut Curry-If I ate this and only this for the rest of my life I would die happy, soooo gooooodd!!!!

What's a pineapple fruit shake without a Christmas cup?

Chill at Edible Jazz

We got to listen to some great music to end a perfect day!
Stay in a Bungalow

Dress warm!!!!

Happy Campers :]

Eat at Mama Falafel

Mama knows best!

Food Porn: best falafel in the world
Take a Lesson & Rent Bikes

After a motorcycle riding lesson we are ready to explore!

Drink Tea

Check out the Herb Garden for all natural teas

So many tea's to choose from

I recommend the Chai Tea!

Yes you can find even the more peculiar drinks, I'd like to say I know what this is but your guess is as good of mine

Get a Massage

(I was passed out in utter euphoria because I got a massage and therefore could not take a picture, sorry I'm not sorry)

Enjoy the Walking Street
The walking street has cool vendors and yummy street food

There's lots of unique shops and fun things to look at
Stop in a cool bookstore full of unique books


Take a Walk

Pai has some awesome scenery

You'll never know what you'll find, we looked up and saw a group of Kiters!
 Make New Friends

Cats Galore


Study!
Ahhh!! Midterms this week!!!!