The Weirdest Party I've Ever Been To: India-Pakistan Border Closing Ceremony

Remember that party you went to that one night in college? You didn't really want to go out but you'd rather suck it up than to hear your friends say one more time, "Are you gonna waste the best years of your life by sitting here alone reading?" You saunter to the car with low expectations hoping the night will end soon enough to get back to that silent room. Upon arrival you hear the lame overplayed radio dubstep music and the chatting coming from the backyard of the stereotypical deteriorating college house, fit with the classic beer bottle collection and posters of half naked girls on the walls. You find yourself planning your escape already; looking for the nearest exits and thinking of an excuse that could get you in the nearest cab and on your way home to that book you left dogeared on the bed. All while your friends have collected shot glasses and enough alcohol to subdue a civil war soldier awaiting amputation, and that's how you'll feel the morning after too, like your limbs have been cut but you're still experiencing the pains of infection. You'll have glimpses of the night before as if they were a dream you meant to remember. And with these scenes, full of skipped minutes and questionable decisions, the only word you'll have to describe such a night is a word that sums everything and nothing; WEIRD.

The India-Pakistan Border Closing Ceremony is equally confusing as this night in college you remember and all-together don't remember. And with the only word I have to describe this event I'll tell you that it was weird, very weird.

We had just gone to the Golden Temple in Amritsar, India, a beautiful and very important site for Sikhism, the main religion in India's northern region of Punjab. Here, thousands of visitors and believers flock to pay homage to God and the 10 Gurus of the Sikhist faith. I was very tired and upon hearing we were to go next to the border I sauntered to the car with low expectations hoping it would end soon enough to get back to an airconditioned room.

The Golden Temple

The line! In the heat!

So we stopped at the edge of India's border and had to pass through an inspection where men went through first and women were stopped and inspected throughly (Sari's are apparently excellent for hiding weapons). It took us more than 30 minutes to cross so it was no surprise that waters, ice cream, tiny plastic Indian flags as well as face painting were all available before entrance to the border. "What is this?" I thought, "Are we going to a border or a circus?" Turns out it was some monster combination of the two that quickly turned into the weirdest party of the year.  

We cross the border and come to a giant crowd where people are pushing to get to the front. Music and chanting can be heard and above the heads of strangers there are two large rising sets of bleachers like that of a football stadium. The noise sounded no different than that of football fans at a rival game, whooping and hollering like a Raiders Booster Club.

The Closing Ceremony opened with the strangest things I've ever seen. Men and women came down from the crowd and started running huge Indian flags from one side of the long center street to the border gate that closed India from Pakistan with music and chanting bellowing from some unknown source. From our seat we could see beyond the gate where two more sets of bleachers were full of Pakistani border-goers, waving tiny plastic Pakistan flags and face paint. They were a reflection of the Indian audience, from a birds eye view you would see two hoards arriving at the same party but cheering for opposite sides, separated by a single line of walled metal, a gate dividing two countries. So the competition grew; Whose music is louder? Whose participants happier? Whose people have more national pride?

Photo Credit Rebecca Weeks

The guards, with their huge fanned red hats, set out whistling at the heavy bleachers packed with people, motioning them to sit, or stand or be in the right section. But when they could whistle no more they quit and let the joy and nationalism that took over the crowd to come over them as well. They turned up the music and what happened next felt like a something I made up but truly am not clever enough...a dance party. Herds of Indian kids and teens as well as women unbelieving they were past their prime came to dance in the center of the street. Soon we joined too, not knowing the music but enjoying the beat.

Dancing party! Photo credit: Ghazala Irshad

After a while whistles blew and we were scooted back to our seats, for the ceremony was to begin. And this is where it gets weird...really weird. The red soldiers start off by showing the audience their high kicks. Yes, their high kicks. How they recruit for high kickers I'll never know but these guys kicked like their lives depended on it. "We'll show those Pakistani," I imagine them saying, "I want the best high kicker in all of India!"

The audience awed at those kicks and the soldiers, now boosted with confidence, ran to the opened gate like gazelles and did a high kick to the mirroring Pakistani soldier. It felt like a scene out of Monty Python where the Knight's Who Say Ni determine their rank by how high they can get their legs without them falling off. And so it went, five different soldiers proving their might and leaping to the border. All while the Pakistani hollered and shouted for their high kickers.

No, this is real.
Photo Credit: Six Pack Tech

Pakistani troops high kicking back!

What's high kicking without some agressive eyeballing?
Photo Credit The Telegraph

Looks more like a dance! Can, Can, can you do the Can Can can you do the Can Can!

So you'd think that'd be it, but it wasn't. Next there began a new competition between the Pakistan and Indian soldiers. It was not one of physical strength or mental ingenuity but of the cords set in the throats of men. Who can belt the loudest for the longest? Yep. On either side into a microphone men lifted an "AH" sound out of their diaphragms and into the audience, their voices carrying all the way across a border to a different people. The might of a country was dependent upon how long a single note was sung.

Known across the country for their meticulously manicured masculine mustaches the red guard of the Indian border takes its tune projection just as seriously. Photo Credit Maniac World 

The ceremony ended with the folding of the flag and singing from each side that reminded me of a high school sports game, "We want a batter not a broken ladder," I imagine them taunting.  

"Hindustan! Pakistan! Hindustan! Pakistan!", each crowd would yell.

Photo credit: Ben Tubby

And in the morning I felt like I had drank large quantities of alcohol and made the whole thing up. Only something so strange could come from my drunken encounters or dreamy hallucinations. But through the piecing together of this party on the India-Pakistan border, full of dancing and high kicks, the only word I have to describe such a night is a word that sums up everything and nothing; WEIRD.

The Right Way to Play with Elephants in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Elephants seem to be everybody's favorite animal and it's no surprise, these tall majestic creatures with their wet wide eyes and wrinkled trunk that reaches like an arm searching in the dark is as adorable as it is astounding.

When traveling to Asia it is common to see "Ride an elephant" on many bucket lists. But as travelers hoping borders and spending money in new places it's important to know exactly what kind of tourist organizations you're supporting. In developing countries this is even more crucial; the tourist techniques they learn now will expand in the decades after.

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT ELEPHANT CAMPS

As an avid animal lover I was very wary of these camps set up all around Thailand and especially in the north that offer elephant rides, have elephants painting pictures and doing tricks all for the cheers of Western tourists. What these wide eyed newcomers don't know sitting in the crowd is that they are supporting a hundred year old practice of elephant training that is abusive, cruel and absolutely immoral.

Every elephant working in Thailand, whether he's giving rides at a Hill Tribe Trek or in a camp has gone through what "mahout" (elephant trainers) call the "Phajaan" or "crushing". When the elephant is 3-5 years old they are taken from their mother and with the brutal help of a dozen people are crammed inside a bamboo box. For 3-7 days (however long it takes) the elephant is poked with bamboo posts with nails fixed to the bottom. They are forced to finished a series of tricks; putting their foot inside a rope or grabbing a stick. They are beaten until bloody if they do not do the trick or do it incorrectly. The process is to make the elephant subservient and submissive and through these inhumane tactics, it works. The elephant has been broken and will live the rest of it's life in fear of consequences. He will be cut and beaten often at the hand of the Mahout. There are no words to describe the pain and fear that these elephants go through during their life.

WARNING: THIS VIDEO CONTAINS GRAPHIC ANIMAL ABUSE

THE CONTRADICTION

Elephants are everywhere here in Thailand. Regarded as a symbol of prosperity, you can't walk down the street without seeing an elephant in some form. Thailand's elephants very literally built these cities. They were used for thousands of years in the logging company until 1992 when it was banned because of deforestation. Elephants during this time endured an incredible amount of abuse, leading to a 90% decline of wild elephants in Thailand. After the ban, it did not get better for the elephants. They were either abandoned to starve and die, had their tusks cut for ivory products that lead to infection and sometimes death or paraded into the busy streets of cities for tourists.

THE MENTALITY

Many Thai's are themselves ignorant of these issues. In class when asking my Thai professor about these issues he explained that Thai's are largely Buddhist and in Buddhism sentient beings, like elephants, are not to be harmed. He said these camps would not abuse elephants because they view them as very spiritual creatures. The facts still stand against this. The elephant didn't poke himself with a nailed bamboo stick, he didn't cut off his own trunks to sell and he didn't flee from his family in the wild to endure a life of abuse at the hands of humans.

http://youtu.be/a0FivyPprLk

THE LAW

The biggest issue it that working elephants in Thailand are not classified as endangered species. Under law, they are categorized as livestock and there are no laws against harming or killing livestock. In addition, Thailand does not enforce many of the illegal ivory trades that still function today. These elephants have no rights. They are bought, traded, abused, abandoned and killed without one blink from the government. Logging is also still legal in neighboring Myanmar which causes issues in Thailand where elephant smuggling has developed.

THE SOLUTION

However, there are a handful of people in Thailand who have dedicated their lives to relieving the terrible plight of the Asian elephants.

A tiny Thai woman by the name of Lek, has started an organization called Elephant Nature Park that rescues working elephants from around Thailand in order to give them a better home, care for their wounds and give them the love they need and deserve. It is a 360 acre haven for the abused. Elephants wander through the grassy fields, take mud baths and bathe in the river. Slowly, Lek is teaching them to forage for themselves.

There are no rides, no tricks and no shows. The way it should be.

Here, visitors, short-term and long-term volunteers participate by feeding the elephants, meeting them and learning their story and finally getting to help bathe them in the river. It's based around education and feeling like you're helping even if all your doing is not harming. There are over 30 elephants rescued by Lek and her small team.

At Elephant Nature Park the elephants roam free!

We met many elephants that had a very sad past. This poor little orphaned guy was left to starve for three days when his mom was shot and killed by locals who found her eating rice crop

This elephant is a victim of a landmine and is still recovering through the extraordinary veterinary care they have at the park. 

This beautiful lady has two broken back legs and a broken back. She was rescued from an illegal logging group in Thailand. She was beaten until she she would work.

This angel was rescued from begging on the city streets

Lucky worked in the circus for 30 years and has become blind due to the circus' spotlights.

I am so happy they are here now but wish they never had to experience such terrible things at the hands of humans. Meet the other herd members and read about how they came to the park. http://www.elephantnaturepark.org/herd/index.htm

WHAT YOU CAN DO

1. Don't buy legal or illegal ivory products
2. Do not support elephants on the streets parading for food
3. Know that any institution or Mahout that allows riding of elephants, tricks or a show has abused the elephant by inducing it to "spirit breaking"
3. Support institutions that serve elephants and fight against the abuse
4. Do your research! Places will call it a "sanctuary" but it's really a camp where they train the animals by inhumane methods
4. Educate others!

THE RIGHT THINGS TO DO FOR ELEPHANTS IN CHIANG MAI

1. Visit Elephant Nature Park http://www.elephantnaturepark.org/
2. Shop at Elephant Parade House where these cute products support Elephant Rehabilitation
http://elephantparade.com/about-elephant-parade
3. Volunteer with Thailand Refuge & Education Center http://www.wfft.org/projects/elephant-refuge-education-center/
4. Visit Thai Elephant Conservation Center, the only government-supported project designed to help improve the care and wellbeing of Thailand's elephants http://www.thailandelephant.org/en/conservation.html

What You'll Learn Traveling Alone + Tips on Solo Travel

Traveling alone isn't always easy. 

If you're a beginner traveler, traveling alone probably sounds like your worst nightmare. You've seen too many movies like Taken and know that the best policy is to travel safe. And it is very important to travel with caution and safety, especially as a female in countries that have different views than what you're used to!

But are you traveling with friends because it's safe or because it's comfortable?

Because life begins at the end of your comfort zone!

I'm gonna let you in on a secret that some people will go their entire lives not knowing; you can travel alone and be safe. "Whhhaaaa??" you might ask, as your brain explodes from the awesomeness that I just told you. But it's very, very true. Some of my best memories were places when I hit the road alone to Santorini, Greece, Lomma, Sweden and Mabul, Malaysia and I did it with me, myself and my backpack.

Oh the open road!

Being a woman I was always jealous of my guy friends who said they were backpacking Europe or Asia or somewhere. "No fair!" I said, "if I was a guy I could do that!" What I really meant was, "If I wasn't afraid I could do that!" I had to face the fear and learn along the way.

Traveling is great, it's amazing. 
You will learn so much about yourself.

But you don't really know who you are and what you can do until you've traveled alone.

It can be small, a trip just to a city close to where you are living or studying. It can be going a few days before your friends, some alone time until you eventually meet up with them. Or it can be long, its all up to you and how comfortable you feel.

Alone can be 'Just What the Doctor Ordered'!

Traveling can certainly take its toll on friendships and travel partners. So when you are getting irritated with "whats er name" book a side trip alone. Tell them you need alone time. Odds are they find you equally annoying!

Expect the best, be prepared for the worst, screw what others think & do your own thing!

Treat yourself to a little date! Dress up, pick a restaurant or book a spa day! Take your journal or book if you don't want to look like too much of a loser. Is there something you like that your friends don't? Order the white wine instead of red or ask the waiter whats good-odds are you'll make the friendly conversation you've been craving after a few hours to yourself and try something you wouldn't have!

Find clarity in being you! Our friends can define us so much, they can even be cruel when we try something we aren't "known" for. Traveling is about learning and sometimes that provokes change. Be who you want! No one is looking!

Be spontaneous! Really, what do you want to do? There's no checking with anyone else to decide the days' events. It's an early morning swim in Da Nang, Vietnam, it's a naked Sopranos marathon in Kota Kinablu, Malaysia, its joining a volcano tour in Santorini, Greece. It's yours.

You are never REALLY alone!

I would say I am most comfortable when I am alone reading or pretending to be dead, a recluse, really.

But when you travel alone you realize that travelers are everywhere! Book the dorm at the Hostel and watch yourself become like the popular girl on prom night. Read a book in the lobby or start up a conversation with the hostel workers, you won't be alone for long! Lone travelers have a sixth sense for their own, you'll quickly be asked to dinner with a group or activities to fill the next day. Even long-term travel partners are met this way. 

Ever notice you don't meet many new people when traveling with a pack? You'll find yourself approachable and open to meeting new people and having more experiences when you don't have friends clutching your arm!

You Might Break Down

Whether it's after an attempted post office quest in Prague or at a beach in Lomma, you will breakdown somewhere, sometime.

You'll break down because you'll realize that you've never done something like this before. When you have yourself to count on and sometimes no one else. It can be scary and overwhelming but that's O.K, that's why we travel. If it was easy, everyone would do it.

 You have accomplished what many many people haven't. You've been brave enough to be vulnerable. In the short term you'll cry, like me when my roommate found me on the dorm floor in bursts of tears and boogers sobbing after skyping my bank. Or my friend when she took a solo trip to Spain and sat alone on a bench on her birthday. But in the long term, this experience has unreal benefits.

You know what it's like to be vulnerable, you'll know what it's like to be alone and you'll know how to do it and won't be afraid of it! Moreover, you'll know what you want and who you are despite your friends.

When something bad happens you have three choices. You can either let it define you. Let it destroy you, or you can let it strengthen you.

But People Will Help

Whether it's crashing two motorbikes in one day or losing a credit card and being money less for a week, someone will help. I promise you. People who travel are often the nicest people when emergencies arise. They know what it's like to have shit happen and they jump when they see someone in a similar situation.

The kindest acts I've seen have been when I am abroad. From people who know what its like to struggle in a new environment and be scared of the unknown.
It's not a big bad cruel world, see for yourself!

and You Will Be Stronger Than Ever

We all have those friends, maybe we were these people, the ones that can't seem to do anything by themselves. Can't find peace in silence? Shutter when they have to do something by themselves or talk to someone they don't know? Not open to new experiences unless they have someone next to them?

When you travel alone you'll realize that speaking up is not the scariest thing in the world, that taking selfies is no longer embarrassing, that you can navigate a city on your own, you know who you are and you can tackle anything, anytime.You will no longer fear the unknown, you'll embrace it. It's an adventure, defined by you!

Tips for Solo Travel:

1. Know where you are

Sounds pretty simple right? But seriously! Check blogs and websites that talk about the safety of the area for lone travelers. Is there some part of town you should steer clear of at night? Look that up and change your dinner plans. Important, let someone else know where you are and check in with them every other day or week.

2. Safety is more important than money

We are budget travelers but I draw the line at my safety. Yeah, I could save money if I walked the 25 minute walk to the hostel but if I don't feel safe I'll just take the taxi. If you need to stay in a nicer place in a better part of town. Feeling safe is worth the extra dollar. 

3. Put yourself out there

Go for the dorm room, sign up for a free tour or a guided excursion you will meet people that way! Check couchsurfing.com or expat blogs for local events. Especially around holidays when no one should be alone! It's easy to make friends when you are experiencing new things. Try diving or sign up for a kitesurfing course, the instructors and other travelers are easy to engage!

"If you are not willing to look stupid, nothing great is ever going to happen to you." 

Don't trust me? 

Follow solo female travel enthusiasts like Adventurous Kate, she knows what's up.

The 15 Oddest Things in Vietnam

After posting the riveting, The 15 Oddest Things in Thailand (You'd NEVER guess!), I've been on the lookout for those strange little quirks of each country. Vietnam is vastly different from it's neighbors, here's what to expect when you travel there!

1. Pajamas
Hasn't it been your entire life that you've been wanting to wear your pajamas everywhere, all the time. Just move to Vietnam! Here, women's fashion doesn't even leave the bedroom. Don't these two piece floral outfits look just like the Target bedtime section?

2. Cone Hats
Thought it was just a tourist stunt? Nope! Vietnamese people- old to young, farmers to lawyers wear these bamboo coned hats when the relentless sun becomes too much!

Vietnamese woman wearing pajamas, a hat and on a bicycle-TRIFECTA! 

3. Traffic
Think you could only drive cars on the road? Think again.

If you have any of the following, please participate in the mass chaos that is the streets of Vietnam:
1. Car
2. Bus
3. Motorcycle
4. Bicycle
5. Motorized Bicycle
6. Roller Blades (YES, I am not joking)
7. Ox Carts (yep)

No reason for separate lanes or even stop lights,  just avoid each other.

Ox Cart joining traffic in Ninh Binh, Vietnam

4. Honking
What would Vietnam be without the endless sound of blaring horns and endless beeps? I really don't know-I think this is one of it's defining features. If Vietnam is anything, it's loud.

When to Honk in Vietnam:
1. When you are approaching another car
2. When you are in an intersection
3. When someone else is in an intersection
4. When someone is in front of you driving
5. When someone is on either side of you driving
6. If you are the only one on the road
7. If you are turning
8. If you are going straight

Make sure you honk for at least 5 seconds or they won't hear you!

Ford has even started a campaign against the honking in Hanoi, Vietnam
Read Here

5. Chairs for 3 year olds
Want to feel like a Kindergartener again? Perfect! Sit in one of these tiny chairs to enjoy a meal or coffee!

6. What's life without Louis?
Vietnamese love those Western name brands, but who can afford that? Head to Vietnam for all your knock off items!

7. Those Wittle Babies!
Vietnamese women apparently love babies! Kid's everywhere! EVERYWHERE!

Yes, this is the photo I chose.

8. Customer Service
Coming from Thailand and even Cambodia, Vietnam proved a wide shock in customer service. Don't expect the wide Thai smiles or accommodating Cambodian's. Vietnamese don't fit the "quiet asian" stereotype and aren't afraid to tell you (or yell it at you) if they don't like you.

9. Bring it Outside!
Everything happens in the streets! Everyone is always out and about in the street, no shut ins here!

Why would you want to get your hair cut inside a shop when you can get it on the street?

10. Construction
Vietnam is a country building, literally. There is construction everywhere! Get used to it!

11. Understanding War
It's very interesting from an American view learning about the Vietnam War. In Vietnam it is known as the American War or the Destructive War which could be seen, in and of itself, as an insight into the many different points of view on the war. Head to Ho Chi Minh City, the tunnels and the War Museum for more info on the Vietnamese point of view!

12. Lady Buddha

Interestingly enough, most Vietnamese pray not to Buddha but to Guanyin. This has much to do with the Chinese influence in Vietnam as Guanyin is a popular figure in Chinese Taoism. 

In Da Nang, Vietnam

13. Bamboo Bong

These Bongs are used by locals to smoke heavy tobacco. You'll see them everywhere from morning 'til night!

http://vietnoir.wordpress.com/2007/11/02/vietnam-in-black-and-white/mr-mice-and-the-bamboo-bong-2/

14. Hair Rollers
You forgot your hair tie, right? Just use one of those curlers from the eighties, that's what the Vietnamese girls do, problem solved!

15. Domestic Animals Taste Pretty Damn Good
We saw signs for cat, dog and armadillo. Vietnamese have quite the appetite for our furry friends. :.[

The Grinch in Cambodia: Evidence Donielle Does Nice Things for People

You probably wouldn't know it by first sight but the Grinch and I have several similarities. When I am angry I can feel my skin turn from its milky whiteness to a mildew green not so unlike Dr. Suess' forested creation. We also both seemingly hate children and well...most people. I am more civilized, however, I do not yell the names of my most despised at the top of my lungs from the boundless heights of a mountain. I do it with a red marker in my old yearbooks, making devil eyes, giving fangs and creating outer monsters of the inner evil. Together we could kill game with our glares, eyebrows furrowed, mouth arched like that sculpture in Missouri and forehead resembling those pitiful wrinkles of a Shar Pai pup; our partnered "bitch face" becoming the #1 example in how to lose friends and alienate people. Donielle & the Grinch, what a team.

We also both like crafts.

But you probably never would have guessed, that our hearts, as well, are all too similar. I know this because like the Grinch whose heart grew (3 sizes, you remember?)  right before he almost ruined Christmas (Christmas to pronounced as "chrisshtmas" lisped by Cindy Lou Who for heartwarming effect) for Whoville his heart stung with the pain of a growth spurt.

I, too, have experienced this organ's uprise, its expanding waistline almost crippled me on a recent trip to Cambodia. I was so nice I was sure the Antichrist's hand was going to reach from the hell to clutch and shake me, "What have you done with Donielle, we had such high (or low) hopes for you!"

The best news is that I have proof of all my activities where I was a nice person. This way if I get called at the pearled gates of heaven (hopefully they'll have better customer service than down here), I'll be sure to get into a great neighborhood with high property value, also don't forget my 72 virgins.

 Evidence Donielle Does Nice Things For People:
 (don't say I never did)

Donielle playing games with children

Donielle being nice to babies

Donielle being nice to kittens

Donielle & friends teaching some English

Donielle & Friends passing out clothing 

Donielle being nice to children
Photo Credit: Sarah Brown

I was so nice to these kids I let them put Tarantulas on me!!! Would Mother Theresa do that? I don't think she would.
Good Deed Score; Donielle: 1 Mother Theresa: 5,000 Let's hear it for the underdog!
Photo Credit: Sarah Brown

WHOA I'M TIRED.

Evidence People Do Nice Things For Donielle:

Just might have to do some crossing off

We met some amazing Khmer people who showed us true kindness and hospitality. It was they who fed my heart with hopes for humanity. The Khmer culture is strong and with perseverance and love they are rebuilding their country.

This is our driver who got up with us every morning at 5:00am to watch the sunrise with us! We love him!
Photo Credit: Sarah Brown

He even took us to a local market and has us try non-touristy delicious food!

This is our friend Sarann who took us everywhere and introduced us to a lot of Khmer culture!

When the taxi got a flat tire his fun and lively personality helped us get through it!

I feel honored just to have stood in the presence of such an awesome person.
Here is a local villager and her pet tarantula. 

Some locals in Phomn Pehn asked us to play volleyball with them by the river, so fun!
Photo Credit: Sarah Brown

Our Saviors: We were dropped off at the wrong place by a local bus where we proceeded to hitch hike (very literally) down to the center of town. These very nice people picked up three white girls with backpacks bigger than their bodies on the side of the road and proceeded to help us find this illusive home stay. He got us on the right bus and even called the home stay the next day to make sure we got there safely!
Here he is on the phone with a friend who spoke english and was helping translate.
Photo Credit: Sarah Brown

“No act of kindness, no matter how small, is ever wasted.” 
― Aesop