Hill Tribe Trekking

"And this, our life, exempt from public haunt, finds tongues in trees, books in the running brooks, sermons in stones, and good in everything"-William Shakespeare

A walking stick, high socks, water, bathing suit and flashlight. I packed my bags and mentally prepared for the next three days that I would spend trekking through the Thai jungle to the Karen Hill Tribe that would host us while we learned about the culture and life of the hill tribe people. I was prepared for the 3 hour daily hiking, the electricity-less village, the heat and the communal dinners, however, I was surprised at how much I enjoyed it! The fresh air, the sweat, the scenery, culture and adventure. Besides a broken toe, some scrapes, bruises and a sunburn, I left the hill tribe with a much needed dose of nature.

Day One: Car Ride. Games. Market. Waterfall. Swim. Hike. Hike. Hike. Legs. Burn. Sweat. Hike. Sweat. Hike. Arrive. Village. Rest. Bathe. River. Sunset. Eat. Campfire. Guitar. Sing. Chat. Read. Sleep.

Day Two: Rooster. Rooster. God. Damn. Rooster. Wake. Eat. Hike. Hike. Hike. Arrive. Village. Rest. Read. Eat. Elephant. Ride. Bathe. Elephants. Water. Buffalos. Shower. Read. Dinner. Yum. Beach. Bonfire. Chat. Sleep.

Day Three: Rooster. Rooster. God. Damn. Rooster. Wake. Eat. Goodbyes. Bamboo Raft. Bamboo Raft. Bamboo Raft. Bamboo Raft. Capsize. Toe. Breaks. Bamboo Raft. Water. Fight. Bamboo Raft. Arrive. Eat. Car Ride. Games. Home. Shower. Eat. Sleep.

The hill tribes in Thailand are often misunderstood among westerners, even the larger Thai population are not educated on the hill tribe culture and way of life. So here's some short FAQ's to sum up and help adjust your preconceived notions about this unique subculture. 

Who are the Hill Tribe People? 

The hill tribe people are basically refugees from other asian countries mostly Myanmar (Burma) as well as China and Tibet. This migration occurred within the last 100 years when these other countries experienced political unrest. 

Are they citizens of Thailand? 

Many have become citizens of Thailand. The hill tribe people were pretty much left alone until the 1950's, when the increase in their numbers, extreme poverty, statelessness and threat of insurgency forced the government to create a national committee and provide more resources for educating and integrating the hill tribe people into Thai culture. 

How many hill tribe people are there?

Karen Hill Tribe (Myanmar origin) =300,000

Hmong (Yunnan origin) =124,000

Lahu (Myanmar & Yunnan origin) =73,000

Akha (Tibet & Myanmar origin) =50,000

Mien (Central China) =40,000

Do they speak Thai? 

Although many of the hill tribe people work in tourism or other outlets where they have to communicate with other Thai citizens, hill tribe people have their own language which differs greatly from Thai as well as other hill tribes. Each hill tribe has its own customs, language, dress and spiritual beliefs and this is sometimes true even of the numerous sub-categories within one hill tribe. For example, the Green Hmong and White Hmong speak in different and distinct dialects. The Karen Hill Tribe speak Karen.

What is there religion? 

Many of the Karen were converted to Christianity by the missionaries, with some tribes still practicing animism or being Buddhist.

How do they make their living?

The Karen occupy lowland areas, engaging in agriculture, including rice cultivation. They are also skilled weavers and the most environmentally conscious of the hill tribes - practicing crop rotation, thus preserving the forest. Many of them have begun to work in tourism by offering tours of their village and elephant rides.

What is the connection between opium sales and hill tribes?

The hill tribes when first migrating to thailand began to cultivate opium which proved to be a major source of income for the hill tribes. The lucrative drug trafficking along the Myanmar border is a difficult issue faced by both the hill tribes and the Thai government. Recently, the government has been working hard to eradicate opium cultivation by successfully substituting it with other cash crops, such as cabbages and fruits. 

What problems do the hill tribe people face?

Hill tribes have issues with citizenship, conforming to mainstream Thai society and the loss of their indigenous customs and languages. Furthermore, their placement at the centre of the lucrative drug trafficking along the Myanmar border has often put them in compromising positions.

Mae Taeng was the area where we hiked and visited the Karen hill tribe villages

We went to an incredible waterfall and got to swim and play, so breathtaking!

Village agriculture

A Karen village 

Beautiful trees and scenery 

We had to cross many of these scary bridges on the way, yikes!

Outside my window these cows grazed all day

Here we are getting ready for bed, all safe in our net. Besides two runs-ins with abnormally gimongus spiders we were unscathed. 

Toast and tea for breakfast!

Here we are making lunch!

Time for laundry!

The beautiful river that we would spend 4 hours rafting down to get back to the city

At night the local Karen kids sang and played games with us!

Here's the bamboo raft, looks fun eh? You should try it for 4 hours.

We got to ride the elephants and then took them to the river for a bath!

Me and my best friend!

The cutest little Karen girl!

Many dogs are stray but are treated more as communal pets that are fed by everyone. We had one dog follow our group for two hours from one village to the next. He slept over and then jumped on our bamboo raft and hitched a ride for several hours down river. He knew when he was home and jumped off the boat and onto the shore of his own village. Dog's truly know the meaning of home. We nicknamed him Vagabond for his spirited and adventurous nature. 

Sukhothai; The Dawn of Happiness

This past weekend I traveled with my group to Sukhothai, Thailand known for its beautiful ruins remaining from the first kingdom of Thailand established 800 years ago. Sukhothai literally means, "Dawn of Happiness," and walking through the ruins, chedis and buddha statues, built from 1238 to 1257, you feel an instant peace and belonging in this tranquil area in Lower Northern Thailand.

Beginning in the 12th century, a people from Yunnan in China settled in the northern regions of the Khmer state (what is now Northern Thailand). Known as the Thai (free men), they organized themselves in small communities. A Thai prince married a Khmer woman, then rebelled against the central power and created the first Siamese state, calling it the kingdom of Sukhothai after the name of its capital city. Ramkhamhaeng (or Rama the Strong), second son of the founder of the state (c. 1280-1318) was one of the most important Thai sovereigns, for he brought his state extensive territory through his military victories. He invented the Siamese alphabet (Khmer script) and imposed strict observance of the Buddhist religion and instituted a military and social organization copied from his vanquished neighbours, the Khmers.

The great civilization which evolved in the kingdom of Sukhothai was a tributary of numerous influences and ancient local traditions, but the rapid assimilation of all these elements forged, in record time, what is known as the Sukhothai style.

Because of the distance between the ruins it is suggested to rent a bicycle or motorcycle to see the remains of the royal palace and twenty-six temples that sprung up from the lush park. I felt the joy I did when riding my bicycle as a child, hands out, eyes closed; free. The wind blowing away our worries as we rode from one historical site to the next. We dipped our toes in the "Silver Lake," meditated at the tree shrine and paid respects to the buddha statues that towered over us. As if this wasn't enough, we stumbled upon the nicest people in Thailand who fed us the best meal I've had in Thailand; their kindness is the kind of thing that puts hope back into humanity.

Indescribable with words so here are some pictures!

Buddha Statue at Wat Mahathat

Wat Taphan Hin

Wat Sa Si

Tree shrine at Wat Si Sawai

Wat Si Sawai

Biking to the ruins

Me at the Elephant Chedi (Wat Mae Chan)

Phra Achana, Wat Si Chum

Best meal in Thailand (photo taken by nicest people in Thailand)

Cultural Curiosities: Spirit Houses and Shrines

A spirit house or san phra phum in Thai language is a shrine to the spirit that protects the general area of an establishment, these are usually found in Southeast Asian countries (Thailand, Cambodia, Burma, Laos). They look like miniature palaces and houses. The little house is to provide shelter for the spirits who it is believed would create problems for the living if they are not appeased. They are placed outside restaurants, schools, cafes, homes and other meeting spots. So pretty much everywhere. I'd say I pass about two dozen just walking around the city. These houses have been around since the very first establishment of Thailand. They can range from being ornate and intricate with small figurines or simplistic and detailed, they are decorated with flowers, food and other offerings. Each spirit has personalities and before offering items to the spirit you have to determine the spirit's likings and tastes. 

For example, my favorite spirit house is the one outside the the main gate to Chiang Mai University. The spirit is said to love elephants. No, he/she ADORES elephants. If you want to get accepted to the University you must go to the shrine and ask the spirit to allow you to attend. If you are granted acceptance it is custom to bring a small elephant figurine to pay thanks to the spirit. The result is hundreds of elephants around an incredibly ornate shrine, left by the students who now attend the university.

Creating a shrine to the spirit is actually a very crucial and tedious process. Here's an important list of what you'll have to consider and what you'll need:

1. Owner's Preference: Ask yourself how much can you spend on the shrine (ornate vs. simple)
2. See a fortune teller (one well-known for determining Spirit preferences of course). The fortune teller needs to see the site of the future house and also will need to know the birthday of the owner (which is very important). The fortune teller will tell the owner what the Spirit likes and where to put the shrine on the property.
3. Set up an auspicious date
4. Celebrate the Spirit and the new house by having friends and family join in a House Warming Party.

You only need property, an incredible craftsman, a fortune teller, an auspicious date and a party!

Now you have a recipe for a happy spirit!

Simple Spirit House, old and rustic ornate with flowers

Ornate spirit house, figurines and offerings, fresh flowers and ribbon

Elephant donations at Chiang Mai University Spirit Shrine.
I told you he liked elephants, he REALLY likes elephants.
I feel like this spirit would be an ideal candidate for the TV show "Hoarders" 

Conquering Fears; This Week- Heights!

"Waahoooooo," I belted as I jumped off the edge of the wooden platform under me and soared through the air on a single rope attached to me by a series of straps and carabiners. "Wait! Miss, no!" the attendent screamed as I zoom past him and whizz through the air towards the next tree several yards ahead. "Hahaha," I heard him snicker behind me, laughing at my screams and look of terror. 

This week in my International Business Management course we visited a nearby zip-lining school to learn about the developing tourism industry in Chaing Mai, Thailand. What started as a educational class field trip ended with a few friends and I indulging in this thrilling activity! I won't say I wasn't reluctant, I have always been afraid of heights (or falling as Dr. Sheldon Cooper would say), but I couldn't miss out on the fun! I got through the course which included 15 platforms, 7 Ziplines, a 20 meter abseil, sky bridge, climbing net, flying skateboard, monkey latter, timber balancing beams and a zodiac bridge-yikes! We were swamped afterwards with good reason. I was happy I didn't back down and let my fear overcome me, "wahoo" to that too!

Proof :]   :

Walking on air!

Looking down-I'm about to jump!

Getting ready and building courage!

One of the wobbly bridges we had to walk across!

We survived!